ken
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by ken on Jul 7, 2018 13:31:26 GMT
I have just received pack 2 of a 12 pack set from Deagostini. The model looks very good, but the amount of figure paintwork looks challenging. Even with a magnifying lamp it still looks difficult. I love planking the hull. This will begin from pack 3 and continue to pack 4. I now have the basic carcass built. The model is considerable in length at present and will grow eventually to 1.09m when the bow sprit is eventually added.
I first saw the Vasa when I was a schoolboy on a trip to Stockholm in 1969 (or so). She looked magnificent even then. I remember the vast amount of water, or something similar, being sprayed upon her 24/7 to stop her from shrinking and drying out. I was on a cruise about a month ago and again saw the ship in her permanent exhibition in Stockholm. I decided I would have to build her and so order the part work. It will cost in the region of £1000 to buy over 12 months. A not insignificant sum. I have previous experience in building these kits. I have built the Victory in 1/84 scale, HMS Hood, The Bismarck and Printz Eigen in 1/2000 scale, the Akagi in 1/250 scale, The Danmark and the Beagle and U 96 in 1/48 scale. I have also built the Lancaster Bomber, The Fokker tridecker, The Tiger tank. As you can see I am no stranger to these kits.
In the old days it could take at least 3 years to get all the parts on a weekly basis. Now that I am older (64) I don't have the patience to wait that long. Truth to be told I would rather buy the Vasa in one instalment, but Deagostini only do 12 or 24 month options.
If it would be of interest I can post pictures of progress from month to month.
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Post by fredhocker on Jul 10, 2018 7:33:53 GMT
Hi Ken,
We would be happy to see your progress. I was involved in the development of the kit, and so I am curious how it is to build. I am receiving a copy, but will not start building it until I have all of the parts (I have received installment 108 of 136 at this point). If you have any questions about details, colors, etc., this is the place to ask, and I am always happy to check things on the ship if you need information.
Fred Hocker Director of Research Vasa Museum
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artur
New Member
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Post by artur on Jul 26, 2018 14:28:44 GMT
Hi Fred,
Hope you can help. In the instructions of the DeAgostini Vasa model kit, they say to paint the upper half of the hull above the waterline light Brown (RAL 8023). Was the real Vasa painted brown above the waterline or was this unpainted natural wood?
The upper half of the hull looks very odd painted brown and on the Vasa Museum model it appears to be unpainted natural wood!
Thanks in advance Artur
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Post by Glenn on Aug 6, 2018 12:42:59 GMT
A couple of years ago I ordered the Vasa kit from Atlas. I have 28 of the 36 deliveries, and now Atlas tells me that they have discontinued the model and I won't be able to get the remaining 8 deliveries. So I have an incomplete kit worth over 5.000 Dkr. They have also closed down their website, and are not answering their mail anymore. So please, don't buy anything from DeAgostini, they will scam you.
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artur
New Member
Posts: 4
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Post by artur on Aug 6, 2018 14:03:04 GMT
A couple of years ago I ordered the Vasa kit from Atlas. I have 28 of the 36 deliveries, and now Atlas tells me that they have discontinued the model and I won't be able to get the remaining 8 deliveries. So I have an incomplete kit worth over 5.000 Dkr. They have also closed down their website, and are not answering their mail anymore. So please, don't buy anything from DeAgostini, they will scam you. The Atlas web page says no such thing and in fact it says that no new orders are being taken and all existing Subscriptions will continue to be delivered: www.atlaseditions.co.uk/mobile/espaceclient/login/restricted.doOr if you email sales@model-space.co.uk they will get customer services to make contact with you and send all your parts.
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Post by fredhocker on Aug 14, 2018 7:17:13 GMT
I just received my most recent installment last week, so I am not sure what is going on here. It is their normal practice once they are far enough into the delivery of an edition to stop taking new orders, so this does not surprise me.
Regarding the color of the sides, the area between the waterline and the bulwarks was unpainted on the ship, but treated with tar, which would give it a reddish brown appearance when the ship was new. This would darken over time to a darker grayish brown.
Fred
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Post by puckotred on Aug 18, 2018 10:11:33 GMT
Fred, excuse me but I'm color blind and have a hard time with colors ;-) The ship was red at the top where its clinker built, Reddish brown in the middle (Like maroon?) and "dirty white" below the waterline? Would a dark ivory color be close to what the bottom hull would look like?
Eric
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Post by fredhocker on Aug 23, 2018 7:41:43 GMT
Hi Eric,
The color in the middle is oak with a light coating of fresh pine tar, which is more brown than red, so not maroon. A dark ivory would be pretty good for the bottom, although you could mix in a little grey to dull it a bit. In practice, it would be a patchy and uneven color.
Fred
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Post by puckotred on Aug 23, 2018 10:22:09 GMT
OK, Thanks a million Fred!
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Post by tomjonas on Oct 5, 2018 13:52:13 GMT
Is there any knowledge if the gunwales were painted on Vasa? Perhaps same red colour as the outside??
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Post by fredhocker on Oct 12, 2018 6:52:28 GMT
We have not been able to find any paint evidence on the inside of the bulkwarks, as most of the timber that high up in the ship is somewhat eroded and has little original surface left.
Fred
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Post by Arno Janssen on Oct 16, 2018 19:31:24 GMT
Hello Fred, I have a question about fastening some ropes on deck. Can you tell me how the following ropes are fastened on deck (tackles, blocks (mumber of sheaves) hooks, rings): Stays Mizzen topmaststay, main topmaststay main topgalant stay Ties and topropes Fore topmast tie and toprope, fore topgalant tie and toprope, maintopmast tie and toprope, main topgalant tie and toprope, mizzen tie and toprope, mizzen topmast tie and toprope Cheers Arno
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Post by fredhocker on Oct 18, 2018 12:51:52 GMT
Hej Arno,
Happy to help where we can.
No direct evidence for any of the topmast or topgallantmast stays survives, since we believe that this material was salvaged immediately after the sinking. R.C. Anderson shows a number of contemporary solutions for these which would work on Vasa. These upper stays were often set up on tackles rather than deadeyes and lanyards, to make it easier to strike and set the topmasts and topgallantmasts. The stays could be rigged into the lower tops, rather than all the way down to the deck, or led off to the sides via fairleads in the shrouds to belay on the railings.
Fore topmast tie (topsail halliard): no direct evidence Fore toprope: dead end on an eyebolt on the port side of the mast cap, through the sheave in the heel of the topmast, through single block suspended from an eyebolt on the starboard side of the mast cap, down through a hole in the top abaft the mast to the outboard sheave in the fore halliard bitt/knight, then aft to the jeer capstan for setting the topmast. Once the mast has been hoisted, it is belayed on the knight. Fore topgallant tie and toprope: no evidence Main topmast tie (topsail halliard): Single tie from the center of the yard, through a sheave in the topmast and aft to a single block with becket at the end of the tie. The fall deadends on the becket, then through the first sheave in the main topsail halliard knight at the after, starboard corner of the hatches abaft the mainmast, back to the block on the tie, through the second sheave in the knight and belays on the knight. Main toprope: This could be single or double. The following is for a single lead. Deadend on an eyebolt on one side of the mast cap, through the sheave in the heel of the topmast, up to a single block on an eyebolt on the other side of the mast cap, down through a hole in the top abaft the mastleads, through a hatch in the upper deck abaft the mast, then through a hole in the middle deck just before the main halliard knight, to a sheave in the lower end of the knight and aft to the capstan. Belays in the middle deck on a crossbar in the knight. Main topgallant tie and toprope: no evidence Mizzen tie (halliard): single tie from the yard, through a sheave in the mast under the top forward and ends (probably) in a double block. Fall reeves from an eye on the knight before the mast, through the blcok and through the knight so that the fall can be led forward for hauling, belays on the knight. Mizzen toprope: no clear evidence, but probably rigged int he same way as the fore and main topropes at the masthead down to a tackle (two single blocks) anchored on a ringbolt in the mast pad, and belays on itself. Mizzen topmast tie: no evidence
Hope this helps!
Fred
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Post by Arno Janssen on Oct 18, 2018 19:20:07 GMT
Hello Fred, Thanks for the information. How far is the book Vas II? Cheers Arno
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Post by gunnar on Dec 1, 2018 17:35:59 GMT
Hello Fred
I'm new on this forum. I live in Stockholm a "busride" away from the museum.
I was 8 years when I first heard of the salvation of an old warship. In the water of my home town!. I think it was in the summer of 1960. I was 9 years when the first timbers broke the surface. I was completely mesmerised in front of our 17" telly. Sailing warships became an obsession. My parents gave me the book, "The ship", by Björn Landström when I was 10, and I read it many times, over and over again. I was so happy.
I remember my first visit in 1962. It was quite humid, it was impossible to view the entire ship, but I didn't care at all. I was just happy to be there. Many more visits were to come, I have lost count
I even spent my late teens and early twenties working as a sailor, and I put the blame on the Vasa, as I was obsessed by the sea.
Enough about myself, because I have an important question (to me).
I have waited for 57 years to build a really good model of the Vasa. The deagostini model seems to be what I've been looking for.
The editionatlas link, you mentioned, doesn't seem to lead anywhere.
I is such a shame that the pride of our city is available in a lot of european contries, but not in sweden. Almost bizarre.
Do you know any other means of obtaining this model in sweden.
rgds Gunnar
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